Many of the recipes, principles and practices outlined are in accord with this style of cookery. There are, however, the following exceptions:
(a) creams, veloutés, fawn roux-based and brown roux-based soups may not be used as they are all based upon roux or flour thickenings.
(b) Soups are made to order therefore the traditional method of holding them once cooked in a bain-marie of heated water or steam is no longer necessary
(c) Soups are made from stocks previously prepared.
Bouillons, consommés, broths, potages and bisques may be used as foundations. Creams and veloutés may be made but without a roux or flour base, generally by the addition of the respective liaison to a purée of either meat, poultry, vegetables or fish.
Makes: 10 portions. Cooking time: 30 minutes.
— 1 kg live mussels, washed and scraped
— 50 grams chopped shallot
— 60 grams roughly chopped onion
— 6 dl dry white wine
— 50 grams butter
— 5 grams parsley stock
— 1 bay leaf
— 1 sprig thyme
— seasoning of salt, freshly ground black pepper and cayenne pepper
— 8 dl double cream
— 6 egg yolks lightly beaten
(1) Place the mussels into a deep sided pan with the shallots, onion, dry white wine, butter, parsley stalks, bayleaf, thyme and seasonings.
(2) Cover with a lid and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for 8-10 minutes – when cooked the shells will open.
(3) Strain the liquid through a muslin cloth into a clean pan.
(4) Remove the mussels from their sheils and beard and set aside in a little of the strained liquid for use as the garnish. Discard any that fail to open.
(5) Bring the remainder of the strained liquid to the boil. Add the cream, reboil and remove from the heat.
(6) Whisk some of the cream liquid onto the egg yolks and add to the saucepan of mussel and cream liquid.
(7) Reheat but do not boil, allowing the soup to slightly thicken.
(8) Season to taste. Serve garnished with the mussels, allowing them to heat through before serving.
This soup may also be served chilled.